South
African wines have come a long way. Ten years ago it wouldn't be uncommon to
hear most people say, "South Africa makes wine?" Today, South African
wines have a higher profile but have still gone unexplored by many wine
drinkers. To understand the challenges winemakers have faced, here’s a brief
history of the South African wine industry. The first wine made in South
Africa, as recorded in the diary of Jan Van Riebeeck, was February 2nd 1659.
Because of the threat of hungry birds, farmers were forced to pick grapes early
so acid was sky high, creating harsh wines of low quality. Things were not totally bleak as Simon van der
Sel, the Cape Colony’s first Governor, gained some international acclaim with a
noteworthy sweet wine.
In
the early 19th century, the Cape passed from Dutch to British control. With an
increase in settlement and shipping came an increase in the number of vineyards
and by 1825 wine accounted for more than half of the Cape's exports, but
quality was still considered poor.
A change in the
right direction came in 1918 with the formation of the KWV, a co-operative formed
with the intention of creating unity among South African wine farmers and
improving quality. The KWV grew and in 1940 the government gave them the power to
set prices for table wine as well as setting quotas for wine production.
Despite its intentions, the system at this point incentivized quantity
over quality. Farmers grew as many grapes as possible and then sold them to the co-operatives
who would make the wine. Despite this lack of motivation from KWV, quality
wines were starting to be made but Apartheid-induced sanctions kept these wines
from being exported and kept the country isolated from the rest of the wine
world.
1994 saw the end of Apartheid and is also seen as the start
of the modern wine industry in South Africa. During the 90's, the KWV dropped
the quota system and price setting, eventually becoming a private company which now
exists as a wine producer, not a regulatory body. Winemakers at this point
had the freedom to grow and innovate with an eye toward producing high quality
wines.
South Africa grows international varietals such as Shiraz,
Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, but Cabernet Sauvignon and Chenin Blanc
are their two most planted grapes. They also have one grape unique to the
region. Pinotage, a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsault, was created in 1925 by
South African scientist, Abraham Perold and it has become South Africa’s
signature grape.
Here is a sampling of some of the South African wines we
currently stock.
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| Remhoogte Pinotage $18.99 "Lam" Pinotage $14.99 |
We offer two Pinotage which exhibit two different sides of
the grape. The Remhoogte Bushvine shows more of the traditional characteristics
of the varietal. It is full bodied with red fruit, black pepper, tobacco and is
slightly smoky. Our other offering is the Lammershoek "Lam" which
expresses more of the characteristics of Pinot Noir. This wine is light and
elegant with pleasing red fruit. We recommend this one with a light chill.
 |
| Terre Brulee Chenin Blanc $15.99 Terre Brulee Le Rouge $14.99 |
We currently carry two wines from the Terre Brulee winery.
The Chenin Blanc is dry and refreshing with
citrus, honeysuckle and bright acid. The Le Rouge red, a blend of Shiraz and
Cinsault, is savory with blackberry, light spice and enough oak to give it good
weight and structure.
Kanonkp has
established itself as a one of the best producers of South African Wines. The
Kadette, a blend of primarily Pinotage and Cabernet Sauvignon, is a full bodied
wine with black fruit, raspberry, and mocha with light earthy notes.
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| Kanonkop Kadette $14.99 Morgenster Lourens River Valley $31.99 |
For those looking
for a more serious wine, we recommend the Morgenster Lourens River Valley 2010.
A blend of mostly Cabernet Franc with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit
Verdot, this hearty wine delivers cherry and black fruit, chocolate and sweet
spice with well-integrated tannin.
From this point
on, wines from South Africa will continue to improve and it won’t be long
before they take their place among the great wines of the world.
